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Using rolled paper to separate warp
Hi! I hear about and see people using rolls of paper to separate their warps when winding on, and that sounds brilliant to me. … In theory. In practice, it has been a disaster every time I’ve tried. How do you keep the paper exactly straight at the start, so it stays parallel with the warp? Every time, even when I swear it’s straight, within a few feet of winding it’s clear it was the tiiiiiniest bit askew and then will increasingly creep off to one side and/or bunch up funny if I try (in vain) to course correct.
Any tips? Magic secrets? I weave on rigid heddle looms, if that makes a difference.
Thanks
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9 Replies
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I find the same issue, so my ‘solution’ (if you will) is to cut the paper into more manageable lengths so that it isn’t continuous. On my floor loom I actually use bamboo or wooden blinds, but a rigid heddle loom doesn’t have a lot of space for warp packing so the paper is ‘better’. So I would suggest cut them in, eg., 2 foot lengths and then the issue of being perfectly straight is less?
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I have tried using slats but find they slip and all end up bunched together. Can you tell me your technique for keeping them in place?
My friend uses corrugated paper but I didn’t like the heaviness of that. I recently bought some builder’s weight paper at the local DIY box store. It is working well, but still a challenge to keep it perfectly straight. Shorter lengths are definitely easier to use.
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I use oak tag. I have a huge roll of it from my “I want to be a fashion designer” days.
It will learn its own curl, so it automatically rolls on. It’s sturdy enough to handle our thicker rigid heddle yarns but thin enough to not add bulk on our low clearance back beams. Once cut to size and used a few times, they last for years and will curl into a roll for easy storage.
Mine are 48″ long, so 2 to 3 sections are enough for most warps.
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I’ve had really, really good results using bamboo or straw beach mats. Our local dollar store carries them in spring/summer.
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Hi Marybeth,
I have exactly the same issue! My paper is heavy, but it always has a mind of its own. I usually just keep rolling until threads are about to meet threads, then I add another piece of paper. It’s ugly, but it works for me. However, I love the other tips and I think I’ll try to find the straw mats this summer. Is it the weight that keeps them from straying? I may also try shorter paper lengths.
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Great tips, thanks! I’ll have to experiment with some of these ideas.
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I use paper on one of my looms. I’m kind of glad that it doesn’t wind on perfectly evenly, because I can see how much warp is left. And I use shorter segments so it doesn’t have a chance get too out of alignment. I use slats on the other looms, which I’ve had no problems with (once I learned how to use them right).
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I have had the best success with short lengths of paper, and heavier weight paper that seems to behave a little better. I have some heavy weight (non-pasted) wall paper that works well, and one of my guilds has old engineering blueprints for members to use.
I mainly use sticks though, I recycled an old window blind (venetian style, with thin wooden slats that are approximately an inch wide) that gave me enough slats for a 5-6 yard warp (I use 3-4 for the first round, covering the rod and knots, and then one every couple of beam rotations), and have been very happy with that solution.
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