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Using old wool weaving yarn
I have several sets of old coned yarn that was originally labeled for weaving (Square Sale Federick J. Fawcett & Oregon Worsted Company Maypole Nehalem).
The cone yarn seems all lifeless and non-stretchy, but some of it was recently skeined off and washed before I got it, and it’s all plumped up and alive.
So two questions:
Should I calculate epi using the dead yarn on cones or after it’s been washed and revitalized?
After overdyeing, should I dry it under tension?
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10 Replies
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If you are going to dye it all, I’d do a wrap after it has been dyed. It’s likely been compressed for years and having it bloom again may change how it behaves after dyeing and wet finishing. I’d do a small sample, maybe on one of those small sampleit type loom and check it. While at it, I’d test for fulling, too. If it’s worsted it may not want to full much, if at all.
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I actually bought 2 new cones of wool. They swell after washing to 4 ply wool. I haven’t used wool cones before but I plan to dye them and then do a wpi and sample to get the correct sett.
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This is an interesting conversation. I’ve never really woven with wool, and when I have it hasn’t come out nice. I just learned something else I’ll have to think about when I pull out those old cones of wool. Thanks everyone!
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Yeah, wool can transform amazingly! The yarn on the cone can feel scratchy and coarse, but after fulling it’s a completely different feel. But you never know until it has been wet finished, so that is a very important consideration when you are thinking about using it.
“It isn’t finished until it’s wet finished” (some woman says….)
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Judith McKenzie says that you should never wash handspun if you’re going to weave with it. There’s probably a particular set of variables for which it is true, but I challenge it on general principles. I’ve always wanted to test the theory but have never been disciplined enough to carry it out and control all the variables. Do you have any thoughts on this?
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That’s interesting advice. My mom, who was an excellent hand spinner, always told me you had to wash the yarn to set the twist and finish it before using it in anything. I’ve woven rugs with some of my heavy-duty hand spun and they’ve come out just fine. I want to weave scarves with hand spun someday, if I ever get back to spinning again. Sounds like I need to do some experimenting!
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Yes, I’ve woven things with washed handspun that have also turned out quite nice. Would they have been even better if the yarn was not washed before weaving? Who knows. I’m sure there’s a grain of truth in her advice, i.e. for certain fibers prepared in a specific way, spun in a specific manner, woven in a specific weave structure at a specific sett and beat, and then finished in a certain way, the result is better if you don’t wash the yarn before you weave with it. But how much better? I can’t think that it applies to all fibers and processes but I’m not willing to put in the time to prove or disprove her theory. I’m sure she has good reason for stating that rule, but I haven’t had the chance to question her about what led to that theory.
My conclusion is to allow for the possibility that handspun doesn’t always have to be washed before weaving. I’m certainly inclined to wash wool, but not always cotton or silk. I may change my mind!
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I would be interested to know why Judith recommends that. For me, I would want twist energy to be ‘tamed’ before I tried weaving with it, but perhaps there is a good reason for not doing that.
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Yes, active twist is challenging but to some extent, twist in handspun goes to sleep (gets tamed) over time, particularly if stored under tension on a bobbin. Aha… yet another variable to control!
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Sometimes wool meant for industrial weaving is treated to make it smoother and more compressed so it runs through industrial equipment easier. I buy mill-end silk and merino, and it always feels stiff and flat until it’s woven and finished, then it transforms.
If you plan to dye it, make sure you wash it first to remove any coatings it might have.
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