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creating 3 dimensional
Tien, I just threw this draft together and rotated it to get the feel of shading in the weft. Being a rigid heddle weaver it is easier to create 3 dimensional in the weft. How would you change this design and/or color to make it more 3 dimensional? In this example, I am really looking to see if my color gradations and proportions of the colors is correct.Thanks!
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14 Replies
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Looks totally 3D to me. I could fall right into those valleys
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Thanks Cynthia. Being a rigid heddle weaver it is easier to create weft 3 dimensional. I am just not sure of the proportions. You have given me hope.
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I agree with Cynthia.Your draftdefinitely looks 3 dimensional and very intriguing as a design. Looking forward to seeing how the woven piece turns out.
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I was fiddling with a Twill Generator threading a few weeks ago and wound up with a draft that looked totally 3D to me. We’ve got it on the loom for Towelapalooza ’24!
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I absolutley love the subtlety of depth in your draft, Janet.
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I don’t remember the particulars offhand, but I do know it’s a dornick threading – it’s the jump across the shafts that makes it skip from heavy black to heavy white and that’s what causes the 3D effect, I think.
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Thanks for the explanation. It is brilliant.
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Definitely looks 3 dimensional to me! Love it!
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Sorry for being late responding! Somehow I missed this one.
Your design looks pretty good, depth-wise. Here are some things you can do to make it look more 3-d:
– expand the value range, so it goes from almost black to almost white. That increases the sense of depth.
– To get a cylindrical effect, start with a broad center of light color, then taper it progressively more rapidly to dark at the edges. This is because if you look at a cylinder that’s lit from the center, it is brightly lit in a large section in the center, but as your eye travels to the left or right, the light hits the cylinder at a less and less perpendicular angle, so less of it reflects into your eyes. The taper-off does not happen evenly; it’s something more like 5-10 threads of super-light, 3 threads of light, 2 threads of medium, 1 of dark, and then transition whatever length you want of very dark/black.
This is also true if you want to create a glow effect, except that glow tapers off even more abruptly.
– I’m less sure of this, but try a very dark warp rather than a very light warp. In general, you see differences in stripes more with a dark warp (or weft, if the warp is striped) so I think using black rather than white increases the sense of depth. You definitely want either very dark or very white, though, as in-between values can muff it up.
Post your results!! I’m eager to see.
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Thank you so much for your wisdom on this topic. We talked about this at your Dec. design session and using a gradient to get the 3-D effect. I’ve been looking at 8/2 Tencels and it seems to me that the only way I can light to dark gradient in purple (or any colors) is to dye it myself. Do you know of any commercially sold Tencel in gradients?
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I don’t know offhand about 8/2 Tencel sources – I don’t use it, alas! But does it have to be tencel? When I think “gradients” in anything other than cotton, I think “Redfish Dyeworks”. (If they’re still around – I haven’t seen them at conferences for a while”.) They do silk and lots of incredible gradients there.
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I had forgotten about Redfish. I have some in my stash and their colors are wonderful. Their website it still active with a phone number. I will inventory my stash and then call them. Thanks for mentioning them. Their yarns are wonderful!
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Tien, can I use similar numbers from dark to light in the weft to create a weft 3 D? Sorry, I am going to assume your answer referred to my design vs Janets so no need to reply.
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Yes, you can! It works the same way.
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